Origins of Our Weaving |1894 From Hachiouji “Nikaido Weaving factory” to yamamayu

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Hachioji, Tokyo, 1894 — a town of weaving. Nikaido Weaving Factory was founded here, and the tools and know-how passed down through those hands continue to shape the textiles of yamamayu today.

Signboard of Nikaido Orimono

Contents

Hachioji and the Memory of Weaving

Hachioji has long prospered as a textile region. In the modern era, production shifted from hand weaving to power looms. By the late Meiji period power looms had been introduced, and their use spread through the Taisho years.

The area carries a technical lineage represented by Tama-ori, and diverse techniques such as tsumugi and mori/karami (interlaced/leno structures) are still handed down today.

The Lineage from Nikaido Orimono (1894–)

TSUDAKOMA power loom

Founded in Hachioji in 1894 (Meiji 27), Nikaido Orimono adapted its work to the times while passing weaving skills down through the family. Yamamayu Studio (yamamayu) carries forward that lineage today.

Inherited Tools: Power Looms and Handlooms

Power Loom (TSUDAKOMA, early Showa)

We keep vintage power looms running through ongoing maintenance. There are no automatic sensors for broken ends; the weaver listens, watches, and feels the machine, nurturing the cloth pick by pick.

  • Consistent beating × manual decisions for end repair and stops
  • Expressions suited to the pace and interval of older looms, such as karami/leno structures

Treadle Handlooms

We also use and maintain treadle handlooms passed down through generations—some gifted by friends. As of September 2025 we own 15 handlooms, and we create fabrics that best match each loom’s character.

The Technique of Karami-ori (Leno Weave)

Karami-ori (interlaced/leno or twisted weaves) twists adjacent warps to encase the weft. This structure combines translucency and breathability with resistance to thread displacement. Traditional Japanese summer weaves such as sha, ro, and ra belong to this family.

  • Warp ends are twisted (interlaced) to cradle the weft
  • Light and airy, with relief-like texture—ideal for sheer, breathable fabrics

yamamayu Today: Weaving and Everyday Life

We layer human “intervals” and hand decisions onto the even cadence of old power looms—that dialogue is at the heart of yamamayu’s cloth. Daily maintenance and the first-weave rituals are cherished practices we continue to observe.

FAQ

Q. What are the advantages of karami-ori (leno weave)?
Lightweight, breathable, resistant to thread displacement, with a sculpted play of shadows. Ideal for summer textiles and designs that celebrate translucency.