How to Spin Yarn from Mawata (silk floss)

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Purpose: This is the process of gently spreading silk floss (mawata), pulling out small amounts with your fingers, and spinning it into yarn.
We make use of silk’s long continuous fibers, twisting as we go to join the strands.
In our studio this becomes our “hand-spun mawata yarn,” the core work that underpins our cloth-making.

Contents

  1. Preparing Mawata
  2. How to Spin (Step-by-Step)
  3. Tools
  4. Science Notes (Long-fiber Properties)
  5. Tips for Smooth Spinning
  6. Related Links
  7. FAQ

Preparing Mawata

After boiling the cocoons and drying them, open the layers out into fluffy silk floss (mawata).
By gently teasing and stretching the mawata with the pads of your fingers, it becomes airier and easier to spin.

Fluffy silk floss (mawata) like cotton
Silk floss (mawata), fluffy like cotton

How to Spin (Step-by-Step)

Hand Method

1. Draft the Mawata

Fluff the mawata, turn it over, and use your fingertips to draw fibers out evenly from the center.
More pull = thicker; lighter pull = finer.

2. Add Twist

Hold the yarn end in one hand and, with the other, lightly twist while drafting forward. Fibers interlock and gain strength.
The amount of twist changes the hand (soft vs. crisp).

3. Wind On

Once you reach a comfortable length, wind onto a bobbin or tube.
Even winding tension helps later weaving go smoothly.

Spinning-Rod Method

Mawata spread out—starting point for yarn
Mawata spread loosely—this will become yarn
Hooking mawata onto the spinning rod
Hook the mawata to the rod
Twisting by rotating the rod
Rotate the rod to add twist
Winding twisted yarn onto the rod
Wind the twisted yarn onto the rod
Repeat: draft mawata, add twist
Repeat: draft mawata, add twist

Tools

  • Bobbin / winding tube: Wooden stick or paper tube
  • Twist helpers (optional): Spindle, spinning wheel

Science Notes

What feels pleasant and easy in hand-spinning mawata has roots in silk’s material science.

Long-Fiber Advantages

Silk’s fibroin is a very long filament.
Unlike cotton’s short staple, mawata fibers don’t break as often and can be drawn straight into yarn.
Adding twist increases friction between fibers, stabilizing strength.

  • Mawata: overlapping fibers ranging from tens of centimeters to several meters
  • Cotton: short staples around 2–4 cm

Key point: Because the fibers are long, you can use lighter twist and still obtain cohesive yarn—one reason mawata stays soft.

Fibroin Structure

The main component of cocoon silk, the protein fibroin, has a structure with countless micro-voids.
These absorb, hold, and release moisture, giving silk excellent moisture uptake and breathability.
That’s why it stays comfortable and less clammy even in the rainy season or summer.

Air-Holding Web of Fibers

Mawata is a web of long fibers interlaced like a spider’s web.
The spaces trap air, so it is light, lofty, and warm.
Even with some irregularity in the yarn, the cloth can feel warmer and softer—part of its charm.

Gentle on the Body

  • Low static build-up → comfortable even in winter
  • Odor-absorbing → easier to keep fresh
  • UV-buffering → kind to skin
  • Rich in amino acids → smooth hand, friendly for sensitive skin

Learning Takeaways

The “fluffy” and “slippy” sensations you feel while spinning are backed by science.
Mawata is a naturally engineered material, and passing on its qualities to the next generation is central to our work.

Tips for Smooth Spinning

  • Draft a little at a time, evenly: Pulling too much at once leads to breaks.
  • Keep some humidity: Dry air causes breakage. In winter, use a humidifier or lightly moisten fingers. Mawata contains natural pupal oils that help retain moisture while you spin.
  • Find a rhythm: Twist → draft → wind. A steady cycle makes even yarn faster.
  • Play: Enjoy thick-thin variations for your own signature yarn. For warp you often need finer, more consistent yarn (to pass heddles and reed), but as weft you can use more playful yarn as long as it suits the loom.

FAQ

Q. How do I keep the thickness even?
A. Maintain a steady drafting force. Before adding twist, lightly smooth with your fingers to stabilize.

Q. What if the yarn breaks?
A. Overlap the broken ends slightly and twist them together; add a bit more twist at the join so it holds.

Q. Do I need special tools?
A. You can spin with just your fingertips. With practice, a spindle or wheel improves efficiency.

Q. What kinds of cloth suit hand-spun mawata yarn?
A. Soft, airy fabrics—scarves/stoles, kimono cloth, and small goods, among others.