Making mawata begins by gently opening the cocoon.
Making mawata begins by simmering the cocoons.
This first preparation gently loosens the protein on their surface, allowing the layers of the cocoon to open more easily.
At yamamayu, we work gently, watching the condition of the cocoons so that the fibres are not damaged.
The temperatures, times and quantities given here are one example of how we work in the studio.
Preparing the cocoons
Dry cocoons float easily, which can cause them to cook unevenly, so we first allow them to absorb plenty of water.
We soak them in warm water, gently pressing them down so that the water reaches the inside.
As a guide, we soak them in warm water for 30 to 60 minutes.
Sometimes we leave them to soak overnight.
It is important not to rush, but to wait for the cocoons to take in the water.
How we simmer cocoons in the studio
- Cocoons: 500 g
- Water: 10 L
- Baking soda: 60 g
- Powdered soap: 10 g
- 60 to 90 minutes at 90–95°C
- Gently turn the cocoons from time to time
The mild alkaline solution helps the cocoons become soft and easier to open while limiting stress on the fibres.
The important thing is not to simmer them for too long.
The aim is not to break down the cocoon, but to bring it to a state where it can be opened gently by hand.
This judgement is reflected directly in the softness and character of the mawata.
Rinsing
After simmering, we rinse the cocoons thoroughly in water.
Here too, it is important not to handle them roughly.
We continue gently, allowing the cocoons to settle after simmering.
Knowing when the cocoons are ready
We take out one cocoon, rinse it in water and check how its layers open.
If the layers open gently beneath the fingers and spread thinly without force, the cocoon is ready.
Temperature, time and the strength of the solution all matter, but in the end we look at the cocoon itself.
This is how we make the final judgement in the studio.
A little of the science
The surface of a cocoon contains a protein called sericin.
Heat and alkali loosen the sericin, making the layers easier to open.
If the treatment is too strong, however, it can also place stress on fibroin, the core protein of silk. This is why temperature, time and concentration must be watched carefully.
The next step
The softened cocoon is opened by hand to become mawata.
From there, thread is drawn out, and the journey towards cloth continues.
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