About Thread— The Line That Begins a Textile

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Cloth begins with thread.
At yamamayu, we work with different kinds of thread: hand-spun mawata thread from our own cocoons, reeled silk thread sourced from a twisting workshop in Hachioji, and future fibers such as cotton and kudzu that we are beginning to explore.

As the thread changes, so do the light, softness, tension, and warmth of the textile.
This page introduces the threads that support yamamayu’s making in a simple and approachable way.

Contents

  1. Hand-Spun Mawata Yarn
  2. Reeled Silk Thread
  3. Tensan Silk
  4. Future Threads
  5. Thread and Sustainability
  6. Gallery
  7. FAQ

Hand-Spun Mawata Yarn

Material: cocoons from domesticated silkworms raised in the studio, and imperfect cocoons that are not reeled into silk
Process: boil cocoons → open into mawata → spin by hand
Character: soft, light, warm, breathable; its expression changes depending on the amount of twist
Uses: stoles, kimono cloth, mawata bedding fill, and artwork

Hand-spun mawata yarn
Fibers are drawn out little by little and given a light twist to become a fuller yarn.

Reeled Silk Thread

Source: custom-ordered from a twisting workshop in Hachioji
Role: brings strength, precision, and expressions that hand-spun mawata alone cannot provide
Dyeing: colored in the studio with both plant-based dyes and lower-impact chemical dyes

Reeled silk thread
Reeled silk thread is dyed in small batches in the studio.

Tensan Silk

Material: tensan cocoons raised in our studio and in Iwate
Character: rare, strong, and marked by a pale jade-like natural luster
Uses: special works such as high-end stoles and exhibition pieces

Tensan silk thread
The soft natural luster unique to tensan silk

Future Threads

Cotton: we are experimenting from trial cultivation toward ways of spinning and weaving it into cloth.
Kudzu: we are exploring how a locally growing plant fiber might become thread.
Aim: to move a little closer to self-supported materials and deepen our dialogue with the gifts of nature.

Thread and Sustainability

  • Reuse: leftover threads are tied and used again
  • By-products: pupae and used dye plants are returned to compost
  • Tools: treadle looms and old weaving machines are repaired and used for many years

Thread is something received from natural cycles and, in time, returned to them.
→ Read Sustainability

Silk thread dyed in the studio
Reeled silk thread dyed in the studio
Reeling tensan silk
Reeling tensan silk at a silk factory in Okaya, Nagano
Mawata thread with zenmai fiber
Hand-spun mawata yarn wrapped with zenmai fiber
Thread made from tied leftover yarn
Thread made by tying together leftover hand-spun mawata yarn

FAQ

Q. What is the difference between hand-spun mawata yarn and machine-made silk thread?
A. Hand-spun yarn is softer and more expressive, while machine-made silk is more even and stable.

Q. What makes tensan silk special?
A. Its pale jade-like luster, strength, and rarity.

Q. What kinds of dyes do you use?
A. We use both plant dyes and lower-impact chemical dyes, depending on the purpose.


Continue Reading

Read more about the background of the studio, follow the Studio Journal, or explore the textiles shaped by these threads.