The time in which threads are prepared to become cloth.
Warping is the process of preparing the warp threads before weaving.
How many threads, how long they should be, in what order, and with what kind of tension.
As each of these elements is arranged, the threads slowly begin to take the form they need in order to become cloth.
It is a process that is not easily seen in the finished textile, yet the time spent warping quietly supports the stability of the weaving and the expression of the cloth.
What We Prepare in Warping
In warping, we prepare the warp threads that will become the foundation of the cloth.
The warp is set on the loom, receiving the weft threads and forming the width and length of the textile.
At the studio, we consider the finished cloth while deciding the number of threads, their length, their tension, and the order of the colors.
- Number of threads: preparing the required number of threads according to the width and density of the cloth
- Length: considering not only the finished length, but also the beginning of the weave and the shrinkage that will occur
- Tension: adjusting the threads while observing their condition, so they are neither too tight nor too loose
- Order: keeping the order of the crossing threads with a lease cross, so the warp can be passed on to the loom
There are things decided by numbers, and things confirmed by hand.
As both come together, the warp threads become the foundation of the cloth.
Two Warping Tools at the Studio
Modified Power Warping Mill
This is an old warping mill from the early Showa period, which we continue to use while repairing and adapting it by hand.
We use it when preparing long textiles, wider cloth, or warp threads with many colors.
Because it allows us to wind the threads steadily while checking the length and number of turns, it supports the making of stoles and wider textiles.
Wooden Warping Frame
This is a wooden tool used to prepare a smaller amount of warp by turning the threads by hand.
We use it for trials on foot-powered looms, small works, and when checking color arrangements.
Because the movement and tension of the threads can be felt closely, it suits work that is adjusted little by little while testing.
The Flow of Warping
Warping begins with deciding the design of the cloth.
We prepare the threads, keep them in order, arrange the warp, wind it, and then pass it on to the loom.
- Deciding the cloth design: considering the finished size, width, density, number of threads, and color arrangement
- Preparing the threads: checking the amount, color, condition, and remaining quantity on each bobbin
- Arranging the warp threads: keeping the lease cross while aligning the order and tension of the threads
- Winding: transferring the threads to the warp beam so they do not become disordered
- Passing the warp to the loom: moving on to threading the heddles, threading the reed, winding, and test weaving
Each step is quiet, but if something is left unclear, it will appear later as a small disturbance in the weaving.
Decided by Numbers, Confirmed by Hand
The necessary length and number of threads are calculated in advance.
We consider not only the finished length, but also the beginning of the weave, the remaining warp, and the shrinkage that will occur.
The width through the reed and the total number of warp threads change according to the finished width and density of the cloth.
To this, we add the nature of the thread, the character of the loom, and the way the colors will be arranged.
What can be seen through calculation, and what can only be known by touching the thread.
Warping is a process that moves back and forth between the two.
When Using the Wooden Frame
With the wooden warping frame, we turn the thread according to the decided length, making the warp while keeping the lease cross.
The tension is kept light and even, confirmed through the feeling of the hands.
After the warp is removed from the frame, it is gathered carefully so it does not tangle, and prepared to be passed on to the loom.
For small trials and works with many color changes, this time with the wooden frame becomes an important preparation.
When Using the Old Warping Mill
With the modified power warping mill, we first set the thread stand, tension device, and the device used to check the length, then arrange many threads evenly.
Counting the turns, watching the tension of the threads, and checking whether any thread may be about to break.
Although it is a process that uses a machine, it is also a time when the hands, eyes, and ears remain constantly at work.
For long or wide cloth, even a slight looseness can affect the weaving that follows.
During warping, we continue while sensing small changes in both the threads and the machine.
Thread Tension and Caring for Tools
The tension of the warp threads affects the cloth if it is too tight or too loose.
We adjust the threads while observing their condition that day, so they do not break or fall out of order.
We continue to use the old warping mill while caring for it day by day.
Replacing leather parts and metal fittings, repairing what needs attention, and gradually adapting it to the cloth we make now.
Repairing and caring for tools is also part of the studio’s work.
Just like the time spent preparing the threads, the time spent watching over the tools supports our cloth-making.
The Time Hidden in the Finished Cloth
Warping is not a process that comes to the front when we look at the finished cloth.
Yet because the warp threads are prepared, they can receive the weft, and the cloth can gradually be woven.
Behind the expression of the cloth, there is the time spent counting threads, watching their tension, and listening to the sound of the tools as we prepare them.
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